Monday, May 27, 2019

American - Landis 5 in 1 Cutting Blade Install

The cutting blade on these things should be handled with much care especially when new!
They are too expensive but work so well when they are sharp.

NOTE:
The blade threads are LH (left hand thread) and so this is the 1st mystery.

The drive wheel thread is RH (right hand thread) the conical wheel on the end of the lower drive wheel MUST come off to get the cutter blade off.

The off center hole in each of the wheels is used to tighten and break the wheels free.

Best use a brass punch at a steep angle in the hole rap it with a hammer.

Rap the lower wheel in the conventionally loosening direction

Rap the blade in the other direction

Worst case you may need to take the crank handle, the gear cover, and the retainer ring off so that the upper shaft can slide out.

It is possible to use a wrench on the blade but you have to protect the shaft in the vise with aluminum jaws

With old well tightened things like the blade you really need the "shock" of the hammer more than the leverage of the wrench.

The new blade is ULTRA sharp, SUPER dangerous, and the Left hand thread just adds to confusion so be careful!

These blades are $100+ each so I will sharpen yours for $50 but there has to be a chance of making a good blade out of it; if it is massively chipped I'll take it off your hands but the repair is too costly.



American - Landis 5 in 1 Skiver Blade Adjustment & Upgrade

With my latest rebuild I wanted to improve on the fussy not easy to use skiver blade adjuster.

But 1st:
REINSTALLING THE SKIVER BLADE:
The most critical thing (after sharpening) is adjusting the blade to keep it away from the lower drive wheel, the teeth on the drive wheel will damage your newly sharpened blade.

BTW: I am willing to sharpen these blades for $50 if you need this service.

The way to prevent this is to set both the left and right height adjusters as low as they can go.
You really need to work on this from the back of the machine so unbolt it from the table.
I add washers to the hold-down screws so they don't push the blade out of position while tightening.

 With both set as low as possible you can move the blade forward until it clears the drive wheel by about a mm or a 1/16th.
THE ADJUSTER UP-GRADE:
The up-grade is making the left side adjuster moveable without using a wrench.
I added the 5/16-18 button head WITH a spring washer, and added a 10-24 lock screw, I added the small lever too, not as easy as the other changes.

I think the left side adjuster is usually set near the lowest point, and most of the adjusting for the work day is done with the right side adjuster (the one with the T handle.)


BUT there are three adjustments: Two for the angle and one is the "depth" guide on the front of the machine.
I use the T handle and the depth together, several pieces of scrap are required.



American - Landis 5 in 1 Rebuild

Got this American branded 5 in 1 for the purpose of restoration


It has come out great so far

The stamped steel logo was a challenge:
The paint was badly chipped; I couldn't stand it.
So I striped the paint, sand-blasted it, primed it, painted the red 1st, the white border 2nd, and then added the AMERICAN as vinyl pieces.

A mix of old and new technology, I used the Cricut cutter to make the vinyl letters. 1st I had to create those letters in CAD. I use Rhino for this, scanned the emblem, brought it in correct to size (there is an easy trick to that) and traced around the letters. A huge amount of work but the results are good.


The most difficult part of the restoration was freeing up the skiver drive wheel piston.

I worked every day for a week, with hammer, pry-bars, Liquid Wrench, channel locks, etc.
Finally I set the mini machinists jack under the ram AND got out the torch, It eventually came out.

REMEMBER, this cast iron it doesn't flex like steel; it just breaks or cracks, this renders the casting to scrap!
You cannot force cast parts like steel, they will break and welding is almost out of the question or at the very least is not cheap.

There had likely been a dripping of water down the back of the machine. That water rusted the lower long shaft too making it difficult to remove.


 The machine is made up of basically 4 discrete modules
  1. The cutter / Base
  2. The Blade & Drive wheel
  3. The combination Skive & Welt roller wheel
  4. The Welt roller
You can mostly treat them separately


Took a bunch of reference shots but used my working 5 in 1 to expedite the reassembly.



Did the sand blasting, sanding, and wire wheel work. I needed to wait until it was warm enough to spray paint outside and so finally it is.







Wednesday, April 24, 2019

Cat Exercise Wheel HUGE mistake

The Cat Exercise Wheel from fast cat was a HUGE waste of money!

Think long and hard before you drop that kind of cash for something your cats will NOT use


Sunday, September 9, 2018

Sherline Mill - Ball Screw XYZ Axes Retrofit Kit Instalation

Have been using the CNC Sherline Mill for about 10 years and finally got tired of adjusting the backlash every hour or two of milling.

I kept a record of the backlash history and had the system down to about an Hour to do all 3 axis.



It was my last two sided milling that tipped me over the edge; you need to know that the Z axis is accurate

Anyhow, since the last time I looked into it Sherline developed their own Kit, so I went for it
Took about 3 weeks to get, seems to be a high demand.

Installation went smoothly, took about 4 hours to get the whole system in place 2 hours to mount the chip guards and another hour to make some changes on Mach 3.


So it is a stressful install; the scariest part is trying to be certain you don't unwind any of  the ball bearings. Sherline doesn't give any indication where the max point is on each carriage.

 The ways covers were included with my order but I think there needs to be much more attention payed to the installation; they could make some of the attachments built in. However, when installed they work beautifully.

The Z axis sounds SOO much better now, it used to really squeal, now its silent

I had to switch the Units on Mach 3 to get the inches distance corrected. All 3 axis were set to 32000, now I have them set to around 20033...

Indeed the repeatability on all 3 is in the 1/2 thou range just beautiful!


I had to remake the Z axis reinforcement attachment at the top to accommodate the new motor mounts.



Sunday, July 29, 2018

Bailey No. 6 Hand Plane - New Handle

Got this No. 6 to round out my collection and like many of these vintage pieces the handle top was broken off and missing
I know that you can find them on the net but I decided to make it myself. Also decided to make from Cherry wood. The knob is original bu may need an upgrade as well some day.


I copied the original shape in CAD but then decided to go one better and make it my own
 I developed the whole shape in CAD and tried out the fit with paper cutouts.
Two things had to be confirmed with the paper cutouts; The size of the handle and the location of the 30 deg. hole.

The original I felt was a little too small front to back so I looked at increasing that dimension but then I started thinking about a pistol grip


With full size finger forms there is only room for three fingers but often I found using with my index finger aiming forward is comfortable too


This is a tow sided milling and so you have to be able to index the other side accurately
I left 0.030" from the center of the laminate  and so ended up with 0.060" of web between the stock and part
The real problem with this project was getting the hole down the center at 30 deg.

Drilling is impossible

I cut two wood panels and on the radial arm saw cut a groove at 30 deg.

Bonded them together with Gorilla Glue and when the part was finished I could pass a drill thru for clean-up
Sorry no pictures of the blank




Saturday, March 24, 2018

DIY Die Filer - Sherline Based

Have been wanting and looking for a Die filer for a long time; the price of even the most clapped-out, used, rusty piece of junk is $500 and up.

My most recent search finally led me to the DIY world.

Some of these are good machines in that they are robust however I wanted and needed a smaller version.

I had an old spare Sherline motor/spindle assem. and realized that this was a good starting point.

One of the things that I do not like about any of the available devices out there is the height; they are all a mile high and require a lot of space for the "once a year usage they get.

I wanted to design and make a very low profile machine.

The key to the low profile is having a sliding file clamp instead of the file clamp and the pin fixed together. This requires the file to be clamped off to the side of the pin.

The offset of the file is on the down-stroke side of the system.

This is the system at full up, I have exactly 1" stroke.
Instead of slots (which I hate making) I went with a 0 - 3 - 6 degrees set of holes.
The thing with the Sherline is the beautiful speed control!