Friday, June 14, 2013

Landis Strap Cutter - Restoration / Sharpening

Bought the strap cutter and with shipping the price was fair but it really needed a new blade.

The blade had a chip knocked out of it, too deep to sharpen out, and too deep to live with. After pricing out the new blade at over $100 I decided I should at least try to fix it, since I would have nothing to loose.

I decided that the TIG welder was going to be the answer... TIG is amazing, much more like gas welding than MIG.
So I added some metal to the edge of the blade.

And ground it off very slowly keeping it cool.

The problem was sharpening; my lathe is too small to pass a 5/8" shaft through, and I could not get the blade off of the shaft so I was stuck improvising. My Dremel grinder attachment would have been perfect if I could get the pass through.

My final "design on the fly" came out quite well. I designed the whole thing by cutting and clamping parts together until I was convinced that I was good. Then just made the parts with out drawings! I used the Shereline compound lathe tool bit holder as my fine adjustment for moving the Dremel on the X axis, and mounted that to a 6" piece of Shereline cross slide extrusion for the Y axis adjustment.

Mounting the Dremel contraption to the Landis instead of buying a larger metal lathe seems like the right decision. I was able to turn the crank handle at a consistant rate, in either direction depening on which side I was sharpening.

After sharpening I quickly tried it out and with softer leather the cut was not all the way through. I deccided that it was because the gap between the drive teeth and the outer ring was too great, about 0.080" So I shimmed the drive teeth out about 0.015" and cut 0.025" from the inside of the ring making the gap less than half the width it was. The leather can't be pushed down into the gap like it used to.

And here she is all finished.

I repainted all of the black parts and the logo too, then not wishing to match the green and I like the mild "worn" look I simply sprayed the entire piece with clear lacquer, after a thorough washing with Super-Clean.

Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Delta BOSS Modification

I got the BOSS back when it 1st came out and I think it is a extremely well engineered machine. Plus unlike most other Delta machines it is QUIET; I love Quiet, all of the typical Delta machines like my 1" belt sander make as much noise as a garbage truck, I hate it, and won't consider Delta unless I hear it run 1st.

As I moved away from woodworking and into shoe making I used the BOSS very little but found that I needed a spindle sander for critical finish work on the leather soles and heels.

The problem is the oscillation; the spindle must be stationary. So I decided to figure out how to disable the oscillation motion.

After successfully removing the two links and locking the the motor in the up-most position I realized that I had a great opportunity to make an adjustable height system.

I am so far very happy with the results.

Monday, June 10, 2013

Shop charts - Drill size reverse look up chart

I just like this way better; instead of the standard drill size charts I spent all the time to make this far better method for finding drill sizes.

I have always disliked going through the process of "finding the closest" when using standard drill charts, this mostly occurs when I am doing restoration work.

There are two ways you look up drill sizes:
  1. Start with existing sizes and get the decimal equivalent.
  2. Measure something and find what is closest.

This chart allows you to find the exact number that you have on the micrometer in your hand and decide how to proceed with the standard sizes available.

The reason I like this method is because when you are standing there with the micrometer in your hand and you have decided on the number that you like, that number is not on the standard charts, only something close to it. With this chart you focus on the exact number on the micrometer, then start looking for standard sizes. It's an easier "reverse look-up" than doing the math in your head.

I added the common fastener sizes and again I think it is easier to see the whole range at a glance than any other way.

When you look at it the gaping holes jump out, it seems like almost any other system of standard sizing would have been better but this is what we have to work with.
Hope you find this useful.

After using my chart on several projects I am completly sold on it; it is so much better to have each number than it is to start with doing the math in your head every time you want to assess a dimension.

Added some overlap tap groupings.

Sunday, June 2, 2013

2 Sided tape Splitter for leather work

For leather work two sided tape can be a huge time saver. This model from 3M (#S-17454) is the best however... the minimum width is a 1/2". The tape film itself is only 0.002" thick; very nice.

So I made this 1/4" splitter. The Exacto blade is 0.020" thick so it is mounted .240" above the table. It must have the screw near the end to keep the blade from rising as you cut.

I used a 1/2" x 1.3" x 3.2" piece of black nylon to make this splitter. I made this little gem for my new friend Lisa Sorrell.