Weaver Heritage Leather Splitter Improvements

I picked this Splitter up from Tandy back in 2007
It was hard to get used to and adjust so over the years I have made changes to tune it in, now it is a better machine and easier to use. As with any machine it takes time and practice to get good results, but as with some machines it requires improvements too.

I put a more accurate pointer on the hand lever because cutting the same thickness on more than one piece requires resetting the blade for each piece.

The radius on the curved piece of steel did not match the radius of the handle so I had to correct that by grinding it down.

The blade must be shimmed to get it parallel to the roller.

I use several thin steel shims and move them around while slowly tightening teach of the two screws. You must watch the gap between the blade and the roller; you will be surprised at how easily it is warped out of parallel with the slightest change in torque.

Sharpening the blade is tricky but I have the answer; 8" x 12" x 2" granite surface plates are cheap and well worth the investment. it will be THE flattest thing in your shop and will become the last word for straight edge sharpening. With a piece of 800 - 1200 sandpaper clamped to it you will be amazed at how easy it is to tune up this very wide blade. YOU CAN SLICE THE END OF YOUR FINGER OFF WITH THIS BLADE SO BE CAREFUL!

Although no one want's to admit it you know that any unsupported part of the blade will cause a sharpening mess. I am able to get razor sharp results with this method.

I added a couple of compression springs; a vast improvement to the how the machine operates.

I also added a couple of oil holes for the roller pin.

Sherline Mill & Lathe DRO Display A - B Box

I have posted about using a single DRO display box for both of my hand turned lathe & mill.

I got the bug to create an A - B box to do the switching instead of plugging and unplugging the 4 wire telephone jacks.

This is an expensive little switching box however it is worth it to me.

I modified an off the shelf Radio Shack aluminum box so that the phone jacks could come in from the bottom and be protected from the machining mess. There are two types of phone jack so this is actually a little bit of a problem; the narrow ones (4 pin) for the handset are used by Shereline.

After the prove out I fabricated an aluminum cover for the underside.

The 4, 12 pin switches are the cost hit for this design.
Maybe there is someone with a better understanding of whats out there or better yet could create an electronic switching circuit and do what this does?

Sherline Lathe & Mill with MX3660 driver

Months after buying an old Denford / Sherline mill and lathe from the Detroit Public Schools auction I have finally got the CNC lathe running. I tried to make the old Denford driver work... a waste of time. The goal was to add the CNC lathe to my arsenal of machines; having several years of experience on the mill I really wanted this addition.

I went ahead and bought what appears to be one of the best drivers out there, the MX3660 from AutomationTechnology Inc.Wishing to build out the enclosure myself I was very pleased with their help when I ran into problems.

The MX3660 is a compact unit that drives any three axis. I had been looking for a 3 axis driver in one box but most are one axis per box? So I am very happy with the size, built in options, DIGITAL aspects, and ease of wiring. I also bought a 48vdc power supply and 3 NEMA 23 hybrids from them.

I designed this 12" x 6" x 5" enclosure with on - off switch and indicator lights and X, Y, Z, and AC receptacles. I didn't have the nerve to wire the 25pin receptacle so it plugs direct into the MX3660. Also powered a little 12vdc fan (on the left) just because.

After careful assembly I was ready to complete the machining center. I decided to add the lathe to the rolling bench already dedicated to the mill. The reason I got the 3rd motor is so that I can someday (if necessary) get into thread turning or Rotary Table work.

I welded up a small table to suspend the lathe over the LCD screen. I had assumed that I would use a second computer for the lathe but then I ran across a 15 year old 25pin A - B box! So with a single load of Mach3 (using different start-ups) I have one computer and two drivers (with completely different pin-outs,) but by switching from A to B and opening either the Mill or the Turn versions of Mach3 I can jump between machines and the different loads of Mach3 are saved unique.

Ultimately I like the drivers under the table and the whole thing is contained on the one rolling bench.

Someday I will either take the driver out of the old Sherline computer box or better yet get another MX3660! But for now I think I will leave it and start making stuff again!


04.05.14

Someday is here!

After careful consideration I saw that the A-B box was between the wrong components, and so I built one that would go between the MX driver and either machine instead of between the computer and two different drivers.

Obviously the 12 year old Sherline controller buried inside a huge old computer box was annoying and having perfect success with the MX I decided to swap it out with one of those office style Dell computers with XP I got used from the Grosse Pointe Public School system. .

The middle row is the XYZ in from the MX, above and below are the XYZ out to one machine or the other. Finding the 12 pin switches was a little trouble but the physical and visual logic of the design is hard to beat.

 Huge amount of soldering.

Up for lathe, down for mill.

The rear view; old XP computer on the right, MX in the center, and the A-B box on the left.

Now I am very happy with the this new set-up, the MX is of course smoother and more quiet on the mill then the old Sherline too.

The whole machining center is more compact and I got to throw out the other computer after stripping the guts out of it.

Automation Technology Inc

Automation Technology Inc

Automation Technology Inc.

Automation Technology Inc.

Automation Technology Inc.

Automation Technology Inc.

Automation Technology Inc.

Automation Technology Inc.

Automation Technology Inc.

Sherline Mill - X Axis Oiler

Just like all Sherline mill owners I have had a hard time oiling the X axis but when I saw the X axis oiler option for new machines from Sherline it got me thinking about how I could do a retrofit on my two mills.

I am always looking for "no cost" upgrades like my Y axis Extension so this is what I came up with.

Using (for the 1st time) my 1/8" tube bender I created a perfect little work around.

I made the aluminum one as a test but didn't have enough soft tubing to make the finish versions. So I switched to copper tube, the copper had to be annealed 1st.
The room above the spindle is very slim so I crushed the tube about half way. I made the little hold downs and the flaring tool too.

Ultimately the fill end of the tube has to be above the exit end as a result the tube remains full of oil in between oilings, I drop a small steel nail into the top to keep dirt & chips out and use a magnet to pull it out.

It's easily removable if it gets in the way but it is below the top of the ways so I don't think there will be any issues.

I think it makes a perfect no cost upgrade, I'll report on any issues as they come up later. 

Sherline Lathe - Back lash adjusters

Wishing to add backlash adjustment to my manual lathe I noticed Sherline's new offering of what is essentially the CNC Z axis lock modified to fit the lathe. I understand that backlash in normal lathe work is almost a non-issue but having the gibs tight but not too tight is the goal. Also for cut-off work you would hate to have a wondering X.

I thought that I would buy the 3/8 - 20 LH tap instead of buying the parts and found one only at The Little Machine Shop.

Not caring for the simplistic design from Sherline I thought I would try something of my own.

P/N 4417Z CNC: Lathe Lead-screw Backlash Adjuster Upgrade, $35.00

Each time I make an addition to the Sherline machines I take great pains to digitize whatever part of the machine needs to be designed to or around and this was no exception.

I came up with this, the motion for tightening the lock lever is CC in this view.

I got a good millings out of 1/8" 6061 - T6 for the adjuster arm and 1/2" thick brass for the lever.

Had to make a little fixture for the lever so I could hold it during milling. 

For the adjuster I leave .010" at the bottom and have to cut and trim afterwards.

I also added the standard star-wheel for the Y axis too.

To get the lever in the adjustment range required for this to work I had to slowly mill the saddle nut down until the lever ended up in the lower right quadrant. This is where machine repair patience is learned; mill, assemble, disassemble, mill, assemble, disassemble, mill, assemble, disassemble, mill, assemble. 

After all that I got the Y axis down to a good feeling .003" backlash but I could only get the X axis down to .008" before it felt too tight? Maybe after some wearing-in I can settle into a better number.
NEXT DAY: I rediscovered the Sherline detail regarding the hand wheel position; the hand wheel can and should be tight up against the mounting, in the case of my X axis it had become very loose about 0.008" loose. After tightening it I discovered that I have essentially 0 backlash with my new system.

I know; it was about 8 hrs work when I could have just bought the thing for $35 but... now I have the LH tap, and more experience on the mill, plus more confidence in tear down.

Sherline CNC Mill - Vacuum Clamp

My friend Jay from MotorCity WatchWorks asked if I could machine some custom watch discs for him and always wanting a challenge for programing and machining I said I would.

The 1st part of the project was to figure a way to hold the feather weight 1.125" dia. x 0.025" thick watch discs without damage and in a way that would allow for quick operation. I decided to try and make a vacuum clamp and so came up with this little number.

This block of aluminum has the grooves for clamps, a threaded hole, pins to align the disc, and an O ring for sealing. The alignment to the center hole is off a little so I'm going to have to do a test piece and adjust X, Y, for the final set up, after that I just throw the next one in, turn open the vacuum valve and start the program. The natural pattern from the shell becomes the artistic part of the process; I look at the pattern in different rotations and decide how I would like the waves and curves to look for the finished piece.

The discs are machined out of Mother of Pearl shells and the pattern that I machine is designed by Jay. I cut the pattern about 0.007" deep and Jay adds watch lum into the pockets. The whole milling takes 2min - 28sec. using a 1/16" end mill.

The Z height had to be tuned to minimize the depth too, now that I think about it I set up off of the fixture top and not the top of the O ring!

This is just one more use for for my JoeWoodworker vacuum system.

Parker Bench Vise Mod. No. 2200

Something drew me to buy this bench vise at a local estate sale; I think it was a combination of the unusual rotating mechanism, the nice form, and the great price?

It was caked with at least three layers of paint over the dirt & grease so I took it to George's Collision for sand blasting. I decided to try a finishing idea I had and this seamed too be the perfect project. Vices by there very nature typically have painted and unpainted portions on the same part. After completely dissembling it I did a full taping of the parts to be primed & painted and gave them 3 coats of color

For the unfinished parts I used Perma Blue Paste Gun Blue, I really like the paste gun blue over the liquid stuff; I apply it with a tooth brush smearing it over one whole area quickly and then working it in until even. The problem with liquid blue is that it goes on unevenly and so is difficult to balance out.

Now why did I go thru all this trouble for a vintage vise? Well when I checked out the C. Parker Co. from Connecticut I discovered that Parker made some highly respected guns. This connection makes these Parker vises collectable. Just by using it and taking it apart it becomes clear that it is a cut above the typical. The jaws are steel and fit tightly to the machined surfaces of the castings. Unlike most vises this one has very little free play around the moving jaw slide and interesting too is that it has a large spring around the screw to assist opening and eliminate the backlash.

Note the little keeper casting on the front with "Parker" cast into it.

And lastly the rotating system that caught my eye from the start; its a nice, easy, fast, & secure way of rotating the vise on the vertical axis, however... the down side of this system is that you have to have open access to the underside of the bench, not always possible.

Charles Parker / Parker / Chas. Parker: Parkers are this author's (mjozefow) favorite vise. They are famous for the shape of the jaws on their machinist vises. The jaw shape allows for more complete access to the workpiece being clamped. Some history on the company and Charles Parker himself:

"The Meriden Enterprise Center is a large manufacturing plant that is home to over 60 businesses, located in the center of Connecticut.

The plant was the former home of companies such as the Charles Parker company, known for the manufacture of the Springfield rifle and the development of one of the early repeating rifles in the mid- nineteenth century. Charles Parker was born in 1809 and rose from poverty to become one of Connecticut’s leading industrialists. He also became the city of Meriden's first mayor. He started his manufacturing career inventing and producing coffee mills in a small shop in 1832.

By 1860, he owned several large factories and employed hundreds of people, in and around Meriden. Parker products included hardware and house wares, flatware, clocks, lamps, piano stools and benches, vises, coffee mills, industrial machinery, and, after 1862, guns. Guns, however, never amounted to more than 10 percent of Parker’s business. Charles Parker died in 1901 and his descendants carried on his businesses until 1957. The Great Depression of the 1930s took its toll on the Parker enterprise and it never fully recovered. Parker products have now become “collector’s items,” especially the Parker shotguns. The Charles Parker Company sold its gun facility and the rights to the Parker gun to Remington Arms Company in 1934, and Remington continued the Parker shotgun line until World War II.
The attraction by collectors to the Parker shotgun comes because of the gun’s inherent quality and beauty.
The Parker gun is an American classic".  

Base & washer (under bench)