The cutting blade on these things should be handled with much care especially when new!
They are too expensive but work so well when they are sharp.
NOTE:
The blade threads are LH (left hand thread) and so this is the 1st mystery.
The drive wheel thread is RH (right hand thread) the conical wheel on the end of the lower drive wheel MUST come off to get the cutter blade off.
The off center hole in each of the wheels is used to tighten and break the wheels free.
Best use a brass punch at a steep angle in the hole rap it with a hammer.
Rap the lower wheel in the conventionally loosening direction
Rap the blade in the other direction
Worst case you may need to take the crank handle, the gear cover, and the retainer ring off so that the upper shaft can slide out.
It is possible to use a wrench on the blade but you have to protect the shaft in the vise with aluminum jaws
With old well tightened things like the blade you really need the "shock" of the hammer more than the leverage of the wrench.
The new blade is ULTRA sharp, SUPER dangerous, and the Left hand thread just adds to confusion so be careful!
These blades are $100+ each so I will sharpen yours for $50 but there has to be a chance of making a good blade out of it; if it is massively chipped I'll take it off your hands but the repair is too costly.
Hi I have a landis 5 in 1 and a replacement blade but removing the drive wheel is super difficult. Will you post more photos regarding removing that part? I'm grateful to find your blog! Thanks!
ReplyDeleteTake note that the drive wheel (lower) is a right hand thread, it has to come off before the blade. There are two parts; one on each side of the blade. Grip it tightly with channel locks with a piece of leather to protect the metal. It could be rusted on so some WD40 or the like may have to be used.
DeleteOnce the lower wheel is off the blade may have to be gripped with Vise Grips IT IS LEFT HAND THREADED so make certain you are turning in the correct direction.
Alternatively you can use a 1/8th punch to hit the hole in the wheel aiming in the correct direction to shock the threads loose; much like an impact wrench or gun
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